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How To Display A Kimono On A Wall

Japanese Kimono Questions

Marla Mallett

Here are some of the questions that nosotros often receive concerning kimono.

Abode

Why is at that place such a wide range in antique and vintage kimono prices?
Many unlike factors determine prices.  First: age, rarity, and condition. Second: aesthetics.  Since in Nippon the all-time kimono have always been considered fabric art, kimono prices can vary equally much equally practise prices on paintings. Thus, beautiful and rare antique kimono command a premium.  Some kinds of decorating techniques are held in especially high regard. Some manus-painted or yuzen-dyed kimono were extremely costly when  originally made, and cute examples accept maintained loftier values.


Embroidered and brocaded wedding kimono--uchikake--were also extremely expensive when they were made originally; $thirty,000 to $40,000 was not unusual. Every bit a result, a  bulk of Japanese brides have rented these garments for their weddings--with a typical rental fee of $1500 a day. It is truly fortunate that we can at present larn some of these spectacular pieces at a small fraction of their original toll. We may sometimes take access to them only considering of a tiny, insignificant stain on a lapel or hem, so nosotros demand to be a footling accommodating in that regard.

Original price and continued high valuations also dictate the pricing of many hand-decorated furisodes and hikizuris-- garments deputed in the by by highly paid geishas who were style trend-setters. Skinner and Martin, in Geisha, Women of Japan'due south Flower & Willow World, tell us that a geisha's formal kimono ensemble sometimes toll $12,000 or more. Then they point out that a geisha needed dozens of such outfits in her wardrobe.  Mineko Iwasaki, in her autobiography, Geisha, a Life, tells of routinely spending several thousand dollars each week on special kimono, most over $7000 each.  Decorating techniques such every bit yuzen dyeing and shibori (necktie-dye) were extremely time-consuming and expensive; thus, pieces made with these processes were especially valued.  ( For an explanation of these techniques, go to Japanese Kimono Design Techniques .) In contrast, auto-printed kimono imitating these kinds of designing and fabricated for everyday wear by most folks were relatively inexpensive, and go on to be so today.  Some of these mass-produced  pieces are now literally sold "by the bale." My interest has focused on hand-decorated garments that are cloth fine art, however, and I simply purchase examples in fantabulous status.

What are the historical periods used in Kimono dating?
Edo Period:  1603 to 1868
Meiji Flow:  1868 to 1912
Taisho Menstruum:  1912 to 1926
Showa Flow:  1926 to 1989
What is the best way to display an antique or vintage kimono?
The Japanese traditionally use a special kimono rack for free-standing display. The garments are hung over the top pole, then the front panels are spread outward and fastened to the side standards with clips. With these racks, garments that are particularly long are allowed to drape gracefully on the flooring.

Most people opt for a wall display that is dramatic and piece of cake. A uncomplicated rod is adequate--any material as long as it doesn't bend.  I personally prefer a manifestly rod, with only an inch or two visible at each end; other people like rods with finials or upward-turned ends. Your local hardware store tin can provide brackets to hold a rod out from the wall slightly, or you can append it from above with nylon mono-filament. Information technology is simplest of all to just rest the rod on ii slanting nails or screws in the wall.

Alternately, a rod can be suspended from a brusque cord that is threaded through two holes placed at its center, about 5 inches autonomously.  This cord holds the kimono collar up.


Either the front or back of a garment tin be displayed--depending upon its ornamentation. The backs of dramatic wedding kimono are usually displayed, nearly ofttimes with the front panels spread to show the full width and continuous pattern of these pieces. The heavy padded hems add weight to the kimono. If you wish, you can run up small rings to the underside of the lapels and so slip these over screws in the wall. In most of my website photos of wedding kimono--uchikake and shiromuku--I've merely pinned these panels to the wall.

Lighter weight kimono tin can either be spread in the aforementioned mode, or hung straight from a rod.  Either the back or front can be displayed.  Some people like these garments draped loosely and open, while others prefer their pieces hanging directly and undraped, as in the photograph below.  If this is your choice, information technology tin be useful to put a few loose basting stitches forth the placket to hold the left side over the right. In many of my website photos, I have pinned the two sides together so that the garments hang smoothly.

Kimono can also be effectively displayed when hung above  credenzas, with the garments draping casually onto the piece of furniture surface.

One caution:  A kimono should never be hung on a clothes hanger, as that puts unnatural stress on the underarm/sleeve seams so that tears are probable to develop in those areas.

What is an Uchikake?
This is the elaborate, frequently colorful and dramatic wedding kimono worn by a Japanese helpmate at her wedding reception. Of all Japanese garments, these can be the most festive and exuberant.  They are total of auspicious symbols--the omnipresent cranes, for example, signifying wishes for long life. These spectacular garments may be brocaded, embroidered, or painted, and oft contain couched gold or silver threads, metal brocading, and painted or stenciled gold leaf--surihaku. Uchikake are cutting very long and are not worn with an obi, merely rather are left open and trailing, their heavy padded hems holding the robe outward in dorsum.

The groom'south traditional attire consists of a black kimono, a black jacket or haori with five crests, and a grey hakama--a long pleated skirt.

Wedding ceremony attire, showing a brocaded uchikake. From Norio Yamanaka's excellent Volume of Kimono. Plate 13.
What is a Shiromuku?

A shiromuku is the traditional white or off-white Japanese kimono worn for the wedding anniversary itself. These have unremarkably been brocaded, damask or embroidered garments. Cranes and floral motifs predominate. Because of the contrasting cogitating surfaces, these garments have sometimes been chosen "triple whites." Some of the loveliest are soft eggshell-colored silk satins.

What are Tomesode and Irosode?
Tomesode are the dark kimono worn past older or married women for formal occasions--especially weddings.  Members of both the brides' and grooms' families have typically worn kuro tomesode--blackness kimono--usually with elegant auspicious designs near the hems. Slightly less formal irosode were fabricated in other colors. Hand- drawn yuzen-dyeing techniques were favored for these garments, although we also find embroidered and printed tomesode. The most formal examples accept v mon, or family crests--three beyond the shoulders on the dorsum, two on the upper front. Tomesode were also worn past geisha for formal occasions; the mon on these normally  represented the geisha houses.  Three crests announced on less formal garments; sometimes just one appears in the centre dorsum. Like uchikake and shiromuku, tomesode have sometimes been rented for weddings from companies specializing in hymeneals apparel.

 A Japanese wedding party equally photographed past LIFE mag in the 1930s.  The bride wears an uchikake, the married  women are all dressed in formal black tomesode, the younger women in colorful furisode
What are Furisode?
These are fancy kimono for young unmarried women. They are distinguished by their very long sleeves, which were thought to be seductive when they fluttered gracefully.  Ideas of "appropriate" sleeve length changed over the years for all kimono, and gradually became longer. Married women always wore garments with the shortest sleeves, however. Furisode can be any color, and can exist busy with any technique.  Hand-fatigued yuzen-dyed examples were often the most highly regarded and expensive. They were oft commissioned for a girl's 19th birthday "coming-of-historic period" ceremony. They were also deputed for immature apprentice geisha--maiko.  These plush items have not survived in large numbers, and are of special interest to collectors.

What is a Hikizuri?
This is a kimono made specifically for a performing geisha. These garments were cut longer than normal and usually have a very lightly padded hem that allowed the garment to swirl outward gracefully every bit a dancer moved. In photos of geisha, nosotros frequently see the long garments held up to allow the girls to walk on the street. Hikazuri could be busy with any technique-- embroidered, painted, brocaded, kasuri, shibori, or yuzen-dyed.  Some of the near interesting are sheer ro silk fabrics that were astonishingly expensive. Unfortunately, antique or vintage hikizuri were given hard employ by the tea business firm performers then are often stained.  It is difficult to observe beautiful examples in excellent status.
Woods block print, Suzuki Aarunobu,  1769
How should kimono be stored?
Kimono should be folded along vertical lines and laid flat in a drawer. They should Not be hung on hangers as that puts unnatural stress on the garments.
How about sizes of Japanese kimono? How tin can they exist worn?
Size differences among extant kimono are minimal. They take all been made from a standard length of fabric--a tan--about 12 yards long and 14 or 15 inches broad. They are really one-size-fits-all garments that can arrange any adult female who wears a Western dress size 2 to 12, sometimes 14.  Older garments tend to be smaller, equally Japanese women gradually became taller over the years of the 20th century. Americans are usually surprised to discover how long most kimono are, however, as they were cut then that Japanese women could pull them up at the waist to the precise length needed, and bind them in identify with an obi.

In that location are many not-traditional means for Westerners to clothing these lovely garments. They tin can be bloused and worn with a concatenation belt or sash. They can be worn open up, as dusters or luxurious evening coats. Occasional pieces tin can be shortened if desired, depending upon their designs.  Anyone wishing to habiliment kimono in the traditional mode with an obi should see The Book of Kimono, by Noria Yamanaka for complete instructions.

For anyone wishing to make a kimono, the Folkwear patterns company stocks a kimono pattern, with construction guidelines.  A link to this company's information appears on our website LINKS folio.

How about an obi or sash?
Occasionally someone asks me about a matching "belt" or sash for a kimono.   Japanese women, instead, wear a kimono with an obi--usually a wide, strong, brocaded, xv-foot long piece that wraps effectually the waist several times and ties in an elaborate bow in back.  They rarely lucifer these to the kimono, but rather cull contrasting colors and patterns.

The just kimono that are sold with an accompanying sash in a matching textile, are garments made specifically for the Western tourist trade or for consign to the West.  These were also the types so often sold to The states servicemen after the state of war in the belatedly 1940s.  Although these garments often appear on websites such as eBay, they are rarely of interest to collectors of genuine Japanese garments.

The merely kind of kimono worn past women in Japan without an obi are uchikake--wedding kimono.  These are worn open up, and trailing, every bit in the photo in a higher place.

Westerners more oftentimes use obis every bit decorative hangings, merely looping them over a short rod.  They also make stunning table runners.

What are Haori?
These are short silk jackets worn over kimono.   Considering they are  attractive and then comfortable to habiliment, they are favorites among Westerners. They tin be suitable with either dresses or pants, and range from casual to extremely elegant evening attire. Like kimono, they tend to vary only a trivial in size, although they accept been made in different lengths. They are worn open and the plackets do non see at the center front. Some haori come with short braided ties attached just inside the center front end; these tin can be used or not, every bit desired.  They can too be removed. Haori are normally made with side gussets that can be permit out by a competent seamstress if necessary.  Women who require a size 14 or xvi might consider wearing men'due south haori.  Of course haori can be lovely display items as well, hung from a straight rod.


Most men'southward haori are dark-brown or blackness.  The most interesting examples  have beautifully decorated linings and can be reversed, with the painted, brocaded or stenciled panels turned outward for brandish, as below.  Some Westerners wear these haori with the lining outward, although in Japan this would exist thought quite strange.

What is a Michiyuki?

This is a double-breasted, foursquare-necked silk jacket or short "coat." These usually have covered buttons and snaps. To expect its best, a michiyuki needs to be fastened, and thus the size is more critical, than with haori. They usually fit women who article of clothing up to a Western size 10. They have sometimes been worn by Westerners equally dresses.  Often these garments are fabricated of brocaded fabrics, although we show a rare cut velvet example  hither.
What is a Juban?
These are the shorter under kimono that Western women accept discovered make lovely evening attire. VOGUE mag, in detail, has promoted this use. They may be hand painted, yuzen dyed, shibori, or exquisite rinzu silks. Some of the most luxurious are the old scarlet Meiji period rinzu silk garments that were worn by geisha. Men's juban are sometimes quite interesting and are items Western women can consider wearing.  At the left is a man'south juban decorated with an austere shibori pattern.  The woman's rinzu silk juban below has also been busy with shibori, and the neckband has been elaborately embroidered.


Source: http://www.marlamallett.com/kimono-q.htm

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